Sunday, 17 March 2019

Pt 2. The Grand Canyon

Yesterday we drove a few hours north to the Grand Canyon – or the ‘ditch’ as Arizonians affectionaly call it. 

Luckily the unseasonably cold weather has kept the crowds away so there’s no jostling for space at the sunset viewpoint.


Incredible. Just incredible.


Although similar in size to the huge canyon we saw at San Gilin Colombia it’s a lot more dramatic. This is thanks mainly to the varied hues of the rock and the fact that instead of being a straight east to west job it’s far more twisty turny – meandering is the technical term I think. The sunlight and shadows constantly changing on the valley walls to spectacular effect.

But enough about the world’s most wondrous spectacle, let’s get back to the weather. Last night I slept in me undies, pyjamas, tracksuit bottoms, 2 pairs of socks, a vest, t-shirt, long-sleeved sweatshirt, fleece, neck-warmer and beanie hat. Wend had on the same but also wore a scarf. We had 2 duvets and the big alpaca blanket we bought in Ecuador. And we were just about warm enough.

It was -10°C! 

Considerably colder than anything either of us have ever experienced.


Our campsite is massive with more than 330 pitches and it’s officially fully booked, but look at it this morning – there can’t be more than 20 hardy souls here. Everyone else has doubtless taken one look at the forecast and said “Sod, that”.

At least we’re in the van. There are some nutters who have pitched their tents. I mean you just wouldn’t would you?

Once we’ve thawed out and had a cuppa we head out for our first proper hike in the canyon.

The Kaibab Trailstarts at the top of the south rim and drops all the way to the river some 1480 metres below. Our plan is to walk as much of it as we can before our legs give out.



Ice makes it very treacherous underfoot to begin with, this soon turns to mud though and after a while the only hazard is a passing mule train.


Such is the size of the canyon that after 3 hours we barely make it to the halfway point.

Conscious that it’ll be harder going up than down we turn back, exhausted but totally exhilarated.


Reaching the bottom will have to wait for the next time.


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