It takes 2 full days to drive from Tofino to Port Hardy at the northernmost tip of the island. It’s not that we’re slow, it’s because there’s so much to see we have to stop every 10 minutes.
Once we’re north of Campbell River things start to become wilder and the campsites harder to find, especially as it’s so early in the season and many are yet to open.
Just as we think we’ll be kipping in a field I spot a sign at the entrance to a farm saying campervans welcome. This is brilliant. Not only is it a snip at $20 but there are hot showers and when it starts chucking it down the owners suggest we park in a huge barn to keep dry.
The resident dogs, Birch and Coda are cool too. Birch is the size of small hippo, which is just as well as it’s his job to keep bears off the property. Yikes! this bear business just got real.
From Port Hardy we jump on the overnight ferry up to Prince Rupert. We’ve been looking forward to this ever since we came away. A 300 mile, journey through BC’s ‘inside passage’ (no smutty jokes here please, you’re better than that), meandering past countless inlets and coves the scenery is something like this: Snow capped mountains, trees, water. More mountains, more trees, more water. Then a few more mountains, some more trees and a bit more water.
It goes on like this for mile after mile, hour after hour. With only the occasional logging barge for company.
It’s incredible. And thanks to the islands on our western flank (starboard? port? I don’t know, one or the other) we’re sheltered from the big swells coming in from the Pacific so the waters are mercifully calm.
Again, because the summer season hasn’t got going yet the ferry is only about a quarter full so there’s loads of room to stretch out. Most passengers book a cabin but we’re happy to save a few bob and spend our time on the sundeck taking everything in.
The boat is aptly named.
If you’re considering a visit to Canada we can’t recommend this trip highly enough. Come at this time of the year and you’ll have hundreds of miles of wilderness to yourself. Okay, so it’s chilly but if you get the clear blue skies we’ve been treated to you’ll struggle to find anywhere in the world quite as special.
It’s really is that good.
Once we’re back on the mainland we find ourselves with the same problem we had two days ago – no campsites are open.
Despite the ‘campsite closed’ sign we drive down a dirt road and end up at a gorgeous lakeside site. The owner, Michael, tells us he’s not ready for the season yet and the facilities aren’t up and running but we’re welcome to park up for the night. He refuses to take any money and brings us hot fresh coffee in the morning.
What a kind and generous man. And what a place to spend our first night in north British Columbia.
As we're leaving we spot a couple of beautiful Loons out on the lake. They're normally quite elusive, often heard but not seen, so it's a real treat to view them up close.
As we're leaving we spot a couple of beautiful Loons out on the lake. They're normally quite elusive, often heard but not seen, so it's a real treat to view them up close.
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