No-one is quite sure how old this ancient 'lost' city is but it's thought to pre-date the likes of Machu Picchu in Peru and many of the Mayan sites we saw in Mexico.
Thankfully the tourist hordes have kept away from this remarkable place. In part because few people are shouting about it - Phil's guidebook gives it a cursory couple of paragraphs - but the main reason is the lack of accessibility. Perched high in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, if you want to visit you have to sign up for a four day 68km hike and be prepared to handle 5am roll calls, 90% humidity and all manner of bitey insects.
We're part of an eclectic group of 14 comprising Germans, Colombians, Canadians, French and of course Aussies (there are always Aussies on these things).
We all get along swimmingly; swapping travel tales, sharing insect repellent and generally having a right old laugh.
While steadily climbing the sierra's verdant foothills we get the chance to cool off in idyllic plunge pools, pass indigenous villages (the trek provides valuable income for the local tribes who manage 2 of the 3 campsites we use) and marvel at the jungle scenery.
On the morning of the third day we finally reach the abandoned city. For the previous 48 hours the weather has been overcast but at around 7am as we scale the last few steps the clouds clear and we're blessed with clear blue skies.
It's the perfect light to view these incredible ruins. Here's one of our wonderful guides, Antonio, King of the Castello.
And his sidekick, Mick Jagger a.k.a. Hugo.
It's a tough, tough walk and at some point every single one of us has a 'okay, I've had enough of this now' moment. But the sense of achievement at having reached this very special part of the world easily eclipses the hardships we've been through.
These are 4 days that will live long in the memory.
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